Japan on Blogging Like It's the Early Aughts

Osaka, Part Two: The Osakaning

Tue, 24 Sep 2024 18:05:35 -0700

Today was my last full day in Japan. I can’t believe I’ve been here this long, it feels like ages ago that I arrived. But time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana. All in all I’m glad I came, I’m glad for the experiences I had despite the weather, and I’m excited to visit again some day in the future.

That said, today wasn’t anything special. After having been on the move daily for the last week and a half, I was fine with staying put for a bit. I did go out and do some last minute souvenir shopping, trying to use up the last of my yen… As well as take advantage of the tax-free shopping. I guess there is one benefit to being in this consumer-driving district.

Kotohira to Osaka, Day 8 of 8

Mon, 23 Sep 2024 17:55:16 -0700

Not much to say about the hotel this morning. Woke up, made my way upstairs to the chaos that was a large free-for-all buffet, finished packing up, and made my way to the lobby to check out by ten for my train at 10:44.

The local train to Okayama was nothing special, it did the job. But when I arrived there, that’s when it started to get dicey. I passed from the local section, through the gates, and to the bullet train section looking for my train which was supposed to leave in twelve minutes. I don’t know if it was related to the storms that cancelled my train yesterday, but not only was my train not showing, the train before and after mine were significantly delayed. And if there’s one thing I know about the Japanese train system, especially the bullet trains, is they are very punctual.

Iya Valley to Kotohira, Day 7 of 8

Sun, 22 Sep 2024 17:37:11 -0700

This morning I woke up and had breakfast, much as usual. Check-out wasn’t until ten and the tour group had a pre-arranged taxi for me at 10:20, so after breakfast I wanted to have another soak in the rotenburo. Though as I was getting ready, the front desk called. It had started raining last night and continued into today. I didn’t think anything of it since I would be taking the taxi to the train station and then onwards. But since we were in a remote section of the island in the mountains, whenever there are heavy rains, they cancel the local services due to landslides. And that included my train that I had purchased yesterday.

Tokushima to the Iya_Valley, Day 6 of 8

Sat, 21 Sep 2024 16:53:16 -0700

This morning was a relaxing morning. Which I needed. My calves were surprisingly stiff yesterday. Surprising because they weren’t stiff the day before after I hiked up the 900m. Either it skipped a day, or because last night was the first night my accommodations didn’t have an onsen. Maybe they really are magical… at least in the making your body feel good kind of way.

After my included breakfast, in which I leaned heavily into the Western food (I really do love the food here, but you know, I’m not from here so sometimes french toast just hits the spot), I walked next door to the train station to buy my ticket for today, and tomorrow. That out of the way, I just had a nice relaxing morning getting myself ready and reading up on what was in store for the rest of the trip. A trip that’s quickly coming to a close!

Naka to Hiwasa to Tokushima, Day 5 of 8

Fri, 20 Sep 2024 16:24:36 -0700

While I’ve enjoyed my time in Japanese-style inns, sleeping on a tatami mat and partaking in the communal baths, there was a very large part of me that was happy to find I was staying in a Western-style hotel tonight.

This morning I woke up bright and early as the sun shone through the shoji¹ and the heat coming through was palpable. That didn’t bode well for the day. After having breakfast and checking out, I walked the 3km to the bus stop where I had transferred to the mini-bus yesterday. I was early, so they kindly let me wait in the sort of office they operate out of. Being that it was air-conditioned, I was glad of it.

Kamiyama to Naka, Day 4 of 8

Thu, 19 Sep 2024 15:52:37 -0700

Today I thought I was going to die. Not literally, and not in a heat stress kind-of-way. I was under tree-cover almost the entire walk which made the temperature somewhat bearable, though no less humid.

No, today I thought my legs would give out on the 900+ meter¹ ascent, which in reality was 450 up one mountain, down the other side, and another 450 up the next mountain. Granted, I will admit that I am not in the best shape of my life, but by the end I was taking baby steps up the mountain, wondering if this would be my new home. Generations of pilgrims would tell tales of the bearded white guy roaming the forest, urging them to turn back lest they succumb to his fate.

Anraku-ji to Kamiyama, Day 3 of 8

Wed, 18 Sep 2024 15:15:58 -0700

This morning was a much needed rest. I had breakfast, packed my bags, and relaxed until my taxi came. Because this is an abridged tour, and I don’t have time to visit all 88 temples, the tour group had already arranged for a taxi to jump me to the next trailhead. But because of my call yesterday, this taxi made a brief stop at the next temple on my list so I could pay my respects and get my nokyo shuin. From there we continued the remainder of the 45 minutes to the next day’s accommodation, the Kamiyama Onsen Hotel.

Bando to Anraku-ji, Day 2 of 8

Tue, 17 Sep 2024 14:43:28 -0700

N.B. I was in a mood when I wrote this, so it will differ from the rest of my posts somewhat. Additionally, some of the more interesting photos would have been within the temple grounds. But as those are active places of worship, it is rude to take photos. So I’ve tried to make due with what interesting sights I could outside of the temples themselves.

First day of the pilgrimage and it’s already too hot out as I leave. Thankfully the first temple is conveniently located next door. I’ve read up on the proper etiquette in temples, but first need my pilgrim’s gear, the most important of which (to me at least) is the nokyo-cho book wherein, after having prayed to/paid your respects to that temple’s main deity and then to a separate hall dedicated to the Great Teacher or Kōbō Daishi,¹ pilgrims can obtain a unique nokyo shuin² at each temple. And if there’s one thing I love, it’s a passport stamp (literally and figuratively). Whilst here I also purchase a kongo-zue³ and a nenju.⁴

Osaka to Bando, Day 1 of 8

Mon, 16 Sep 2024 13:49:49 -0700

Finding Joy in the Journey and Embracing Japanese Culture

“And I urge you to please notice when you are happy, and exclaim or murmur or think at some point, ‘If this isn’t nice, I don’t know what is.’”

–Kurt Vonnegut

As I embark on a long journey from Osaka to Bando via four different trains and multiple hours of travel time, I can’t help but be reminded of this poignant quote. Gazing out the window at the rural Japanese countryside flying by, it becomes abundantly clear how Hayao Miyazaki¹ found his inspiration for his films. In this moment, if this isn’t nice, I don’t know what is.

PDX to KIX

Fri, 13 Sep 2024 10:12:57 -0700

Adventures in Air Travel: A Tale of Delays and Last Minute Races

As I sit here at PDX, waiting for my flight to Vancouver, BC (YVR), and thence to Osaka (KIX) I can’t help but feel a mix of anticipation and anxiety. My initial flight out of Portland was delayed, which has thrown a wrench into my carefully planned itinerary. However, the new times should still give me enough time to make my connection - if everything goes smoothly.