Pilgrimage on Blogging Like It's the Early Aughts

Naka to Hiwasa to Tokushima, Day 5 of 8

Fri, 20 Sep 2024 16:24:36 -0700

While I’ve enjoyed my time in Japanese-style inns, sleeping on a tatami mat and partaking in the communal baths, there was a very large part of me that was happy to find I was staying in a Western-style hotel tonight.

This morning I woke up bright and early as the sun shone through the shoji¹ and the heat coming through was palpable. That didn’t bode well for the day. After having breakfast and checking out, I walked the 3km to the bus stop where I had transferred to the mini-bus yesterday. I was early, so they kindly let me wait in the sort of office they operate out of. Being that it was air-conditioned, I was glad of it.

Kamiyama to Naka, Day 4 of 8

Thu, 19 Sep 2024 15:52:37 -0700

Today I thought I was going to die. Not literally, and not in a heat stress kind-of-way. I was under tree-cover almost the entire walk which made the temperature somewhat bearable, though no less humid.

No, today I thought my legs would give out on the 900+ meter¹ ascent, which in reality was 450 up one mountain, down the other side, and another 450 up the next mountain. Granted, I will admit that I am not in the best shape of my life, but by the end I was taking baby steps up the mountain, wondering if this would be my new home. Generations of pilgrims would tell tales of the bearded white guy roaming the forest, urging them to turn back lest they succumb to his fate.

Anraku-ji to Kamiyama, Day 3 of 8

Wed, 18 Sep 2024 15:15:58 -0700

This morning was a much needed rest. I had breakfast, packed my bags, and relaxed until my taxi came. Because this is an abridged tour, and I don’t have time to visit all 88 temples, the tour group had already arranged for a taxi to jump me to the next trailhead. But because of my call yesterday, this taxi made a brief stop at the next temple on my list so I could pay my respects and get my nokyo shuin. From there we continued the remainder of the 45 minutes to the next day’s accommodation, the Kamiyama Onsen Hotel.

Bando to Anraku-ji, Day 2 of 8

Tue, 17 Sep 2024 14:43:28 -0700

N.B. I was in a mood when I wrote this, so it will differ from the rest of my posts somewhat. Additionally, some of the more interesting photos would have been within the temple grounds. But as those are active places of worship, it is rude to take photos. So I’ve tried to make due with what interesting sights I could outside of the temples themselves.

First day of the pilgrimage and it’s already too hot out as I leave. Thankfully the first temple is conveniently located next door. I’ve read up on the proper etiquette in temples, but first need my pilgrim’s gear, the most important of which (to me at least) is the nokyo-cho book wherein, after having prayed to/paid your respects to that temple’s main deity and then to a separate hall dedicated to the Great Teacher or Kōbō Daishi,¹ pilgrims can obtain a unique nokyo shuin² at each temple. And if there’s one thing I love, it’s a passport stamp (literally and figuratively). Whilst here I also purchase a kongo-zue³ and a nenju.⁴

Osaka to Bando, Day 1 of 8

Mon, 16 Sep 2024 13:49:49 -0700

Finding Joy in the Journey and Embracing Japanese Culture

“And I urge you to please notice when you are happy, and exclaim or murmur or think at some point, ‘If this isn’t nice, I don’t know what is.’”

–Kurt Vonnegut

As I embark on a long journey from Osaka to Bando via four different trains and multiple hours of travel time, I can’t help but be reminded of this poignant quote. Gazing out the window at the rural Japanese countryside flying by, it becomes abundantly clear how Hayao Miyazaki¹ found his inspiration for his films. In this moment, if this isn’t nice, I don’t know what is.